Trip to Europe July 2005!

~England: London~

Mum & I stayed in a hotel in Eccleston – a beautiful little suburb adjacent to Belgravia where stars like Madonna and Sean Connery have stayed (as we were told by the hotel owner). The location was very convenient, about 5 minutes walk to Victoria Station, 15mins to Buckingham Palace.

We arrived in London exactly a week after the London bombing and we started our trip in Finland exactly a week ago. We flew from Sydney to Bangkok via Qantas and changed to Finnair from there on. Most people on the plane (I spoke to a number of them during the flight and they were such delightful souls) did not get off at Helsinki as they were bound for London. They would have arrived in London about 2 hours before the London bombing. As I watched the reports on Finish television, I was desperately praying that those people weren’t caught in that tragic event. The scary thing was that it could have just as easily been Mum & I, had we not changed our plan to start our trip in Finland first.

The British government must have identified Victoria Station as a potential hot-spot for further terrorist activity as we could spot police officers in bullet-proof vests and machine guns (yeah I thought you only see images like this from Iraq) everywhere within 5 blocks of the station.

NB: We bought ourselves a pass for one of those "hop-on, hop-off" double-decker bus tours. On our first night in London, we tried out the bus but we were on there for scarcely half an hour before realising that walking would be a quicker alternative. However, I need to point out that we were there the week after the London bombing which may have induced most people to abandon the metro service. Also bear in mind that the bus pass entitles you to a free boat ride down the Thames. Overall, although we hardly used the bus service, we thought it was still a worthy purchase.

Convent Garden

This is another Gloria’s originals. I thought Convent Garden is like an actual garden with a lawn and flowers. I was loony enough to ask a shopkeeper where is Convent Garden and when he replied, "this is it", I asked him "so where is the garden?" Bygones!

Anyhows, it was a very vibrant place. We had a nice dinner in the area.

Buckingham Palace

The palace is massive but after witnessing the awe-inspiring grandeur of the Vatican City, we were quite susceptible to shock.

We had breakfast in the Park next to Buckingham Palace (St. James Park?) and patiently waited for the ceremony of the Changing of the Guard at 11am. About 15mins before it started, the area before Buckingham Palace began to fill up very quickly. Mum & I were only able to grab a second-rate spot where we had to stand on our toes in order to get a peek of the long furry hats of the guards. Many people have told us that this is one of the most overrated attractions but we felt it was worth doing for a first-timer in London just for the novelty of it.

For more information, see http://www.royal.gov.uk/

Houses of Parliament & Big Ben

The gothic Houses of Parliament and its adjacent clock tower are probably the architectural symbols of England. We were there afterhours so didn’t get to observe Question Time or the debates in the House of Commons and the House of Lords, which is a bit of a shame. Maybe next time.

For more information, see their official website at: www.parliament.uk

Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey is the ecclesiastical symbol of England in which most of its rulers were crowned and where many lie buried.

Apart from the Kings and Queens, famous writers like Tennyson and Dickens, and revoluntionary scientists like Newton and Darwin, have been honoured by monuments or interred in the abbey.

No camera is allowed inside.

For more details, see their official website here: http://www.westminster-abbey.org/

Thames

We then took the bus to the Big Ben and walked to the ferry port opposite the London Eye. The bus pass entitles you to a free trip down the Thames so we decided to do that. As we floated down the famous Thames, we spotted many of London’s famous attractions including St Paul’s Cathedral.

Tower Bridge

We hopped off the boat at the Tower Bridge stop amongst a sea of tourists.

For more details, see their official website here: www.towerbridge.org.uk

~France: Paris~

Bonjour Paris! What can I say … the single most visited city in the world … home to the greatest painting in the world, the Mona Lisa … home to one of the most recognised architectural constructions of the world, the Eiffel Tower ... home to the biggest Louise Vuitton store …

~Switzerland: Lucerne~

OH BEAUTIFUL SWITZERLAND, HERE I COME!

Those who know me, know that I lurrrrrrrrrrrrrve Switzerland ... yes with a passion!

From the moment we crossed the Italian borders, I fell in love with Switzerland. Okay fine, it was only a crush at first ...

Switzerland is just beautiful, so crisp and clean. The mountain sceneries were amazing. New Zealand is the closest any country has come to reminding me of it, I wonder if Canada is good enough to compare.

Lucerne is a splendid city. It abounds in narrow cobblestone streets, slender spires and turrets, architectural bridges and frescoed buildings, and the snowcapped Alps loom in the distance. It really does reflect the storybook image of a Swiss town ...

First stop, the Lion Monument, designed by Danish sculptor B Thorvaldsen. The lion, which was carved into a former sandstone quarry wall represents allegorically the bravery of the Swiss Guards in their defeat during the storming of the Tuileries in 1792. Mark Twain once remarked that the Dying Lion of Lucerne is "the saddest and most poignant piece of rock in the world."

Second stop, the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge) - the symbol of Lucerne! It is an undercover wooden footbridge used to diagonally cross the Reuss River. It's one of the best-preserved wooden bridges in Switzerland, used originally for defense. There's also an octagonal Wasserturm (Water Tower) used as an archive. The bridge was always known for its 122 paintings that hung from its arched roof. Fire destroyed most of the original paintings and copies have been made as a replacement.

Hirschenplatz (Stag Square) is a landmark square of Lucerne. It's filled with restored buildings, many of them with painted facades.

We went to the Bucherer store which was like 5 stories. Apart from selling ridiculously expensive watches (which I have no doubt are also of ridiculously high qualities like all Swiss made things), they had a floor selling souvenirs. I bought two Swiss army knives (one in camouflage engraved for Nathan and one in red with Lucerne’s Chapel Bridge on one side and my name on the other). It’s the best pocketknife I have ever had and one of my favourite souvenirs of all times.

We had a traditional Swiss lunch at a restaurant, the name escapes me at the moment. We had amongst other things Swiss fondue – the cheese was very strong but definitely a must-try for any tourist. The waiters were all dressed in traditional Swiss country outfits which added to the warm atmosphere of the restaurant.

Performances were then carried out on stage which included singing traditional Swiss songs (some in Swiss dialects), playing of traditional Swiss instruments (names of which also escape me) and audience participation. It was an awesome experience, a very enjoyable and entertaining meal overall.

Mount Pilatus

Pilatus-Kulm is located 15km south of Lucerne. We were told by the Canadians that visited Mount Pilatus before that it is worth the trip and they have the Rockies!!! So Mum and I booked ourselves onto the tour at 90 euros a head.

We took the cogwheel at Alpanchstad, which runs at a 48% gradient -- the steepest cogwheel railway in the world. As we were going up, the fog began to thicken. By the time we reached the top of Pilatus, well … let’s just say … I could not see beyond 5 metres of myself. It was that foggy. Mum & I ended up spending most of the time in the souvenir shop which was just such an anti-climax.

We took the cable car on our descent.

Truthfully, that was a complete waste of money. So even perfect Switzerland couldn’t live up to my full expectations, but of course it had nothing to do with Switzerland, just have to blame the weather.

Okay ... here's the bit where I digress ... During our time in Lucerne, Mum & I bought about 20 blocks of chocolates. Ate about ¾ of them even though we planned on bringing them back to Australia to give to people as presents. The thing I loved about Switzerland was how you could just walk into a supermarket, pick up the cheapest block of chocolate and still have an amazing tasting experience. So just try picturing (or should I say tasting) the expensive brands. I have to confess, I am a bit of a snob when it comes to chocolates. Only Swiss chocolates do it for me. No-no to Cadbury and certain other brands of chocolates which to me just taste like a block of sugar. They lack the smoothness, the richness, and the za-za-zu that makes chocolate chocloate! Long live the Lindt Café in Sydney!!!

I was sooo sad to leave Switzerland ...

~Italy: Murano & Burano Islands~

Mum & I took a vaporetto near St Mark’s Square in the early morning to Murano Island. That took about 40minutes as it was travelling very slowly, stopping endlessly and giving way to all the other water transport vehicles on the way. Murano is a lot quiter than Venice and is famous for its glass works. We scrolled to the other side of the island to get another vaporetto to Burano Island which is a world-heritage listed site. That took another 40minutes or so.

Burano is basically just a more colourful version of Venice (literally). The walls of all the buildings are painted with bright colours which really make them stand out. There are many restaurants and souvenir shops on the island, but we also got a good glimpse into the everyday living of those on the island when we detoured off the main area and wandered amongst the residential areas surrounded by pretty gardens and clotheslines obstructing the way. I really liked the look and feel of Burano but if you’re short for time, keep in mind that it takes a good 3 hours for a return trip (taking into consideration interchange times for vaporettos).

That night, we stayed at the Continental Hotel in the Italian Lakes District. The area was beautiful but we were too tired to enjoy it and rested inside the hotel.

Italy was amazing ... everywhere we went was teemed with so much history, culture and art ... that it felt overwhelming at times ... It was everything I expected and more ... Ciao Italy!!! I'll be back!

~Italy: Venice~

Venice is extraordinary ... to the point of magical. It's gotta be one of my favourite European cities.

St Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco)

Mum and I took a leisurely cruise along the "Canalazzo" (the Grand Canal) from Ferrovia (train station) to Piazza San Marco.We caught the no. 1 vaporetto in the late afternoon. It was a magical experience. A must-do in Venice!

We bought one of those passes thing which was handy because it gave us unlimited travel via vaporetto and free use of the public toilets (which were few).

We did some souvenir shopping in St Mark's Square. I bought a few masks to bring back home. The thing about being in Europe during the peak summer season is that it's hard to take a photo of anything without some tourist being in the way ...

St Mark's Bascilica

Doge's Palace

~The Vatican City~

The Vatican City, the smallest and the grandest country in the world. Here lies the irony!

Vatican Museum (Musei Vaticani)

We were told to get up really early that morning to avoid the queues to get into the Vatican Museum.

Basically, we still had to wait about 1 hour with our tour group before we got in but apparently that’s way less time than if we had gone on our own as a casual visitor. Whilst lining up against the back walls of the Vatican City, were were told that the Vatican Museums boast one of the world's greatest and finest art collections. It is a gigantic repository of artistic treasures , all housed in a labyrinthine series of lavishly adorned palaces, apartments, and galleries leading you to the Sistine Chapel.

Once inside we climbed a magnificent spiral ramp to get to the ticket windows (ticket is about 12 euros, more than worthy). Once you’re admitted, you can choose your route through the museum from four color-coded itineraries (A, B, C, D) according to the time you have (1½ -5 hr.) and your interests. All four itineraries will utlimately lead you to the Sistine Chapel.

I was so overwhelmed by the sculptures and the artworks that hit me in the next hour, I cannot recall which route we took. Basically, once you’re inside, everything that catches your eye is mesmerising. I am not even an art junkie and I could not help but appreciate the creativity and skill that went into those works.

Sistine Chapel (Capella Sistina)

My visit to the Sistine Chapel was extremely memorable.

Michelangelo considered himself a sculptor, not a painter. In his 30s, Michelangelo was told to work on painting ceiling frescoes in the Vatican. He laboured for 4 years (1508-12) over this epic task which resulted in permanent damage to his spine and eyesight. Michelangelo painted nine panels, taken from the pages of Genesis and surrounded them with prophets and sibyls. The expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden and the creation of man were amongst them.

He was in his 60s when he began the masterly Last Judgment on the altar wall. Evidence that Michelangelo was working against his wishes can be found in his jaundiced portrayal of human beings and their fate, in having God sit in judgment and sinners plunged into the mouth of hell.

On the side walls are frescoes by other Renaissance masters, such as Botticelli, Perugino, Signorelli, Pinturicchio, Roselli, and Ghirlandaio.

It was so beautiful ... I felt so empowered standing in that room ... it was an amazing experience.

Mum almost fainted (that's how packed the inside was) and we walked through a supposedly very special corridor – apparently visitors are not usually allowed in there as it is reserved for the Pope to travel from the Sistine Chapel to the St Peter’s Basilica in private.

As we walked out into St Peter’s Square (Piazza San Pietro), I was again overwhelmed by its sheer size. As you stand in the piazza, you’re surrounded in the arms of an ellipse partly enclosed by a majestic Doric-pillared colonnade. Atop it stands a gesticulating crowd of some 140 saints.

In the center of the square is an Egyptian obelisk, brought from the ancient city of Heliopolis on the Nile delta. Two 17th-century fountains lie on either of the obelisk. The one on the right (facing the basilica), by Carlo Maderno, who designed the facade of St. Peter's, was placed here by Bernini himself (you'd remember this if you read Angels & Demons); the other is by Carlo Fontana.

The sheer grandness of the whole place was a real eye-opener!

St Peter’s Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro)

The present basilica, built in memory of St Peter was mostly completed in the 1500s and 1600s and is predominantly High Renaissance and baroque. Inside, the massive scale which is almost too much to absorb, showcases some of Italy's greatest artists: Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo, etc. This church is spectacular in its detail of architecture, marble, and mosaic. There is no room for sublety and you won't find anything but grandeur.

The first chapel houses one of the Vatican's greatest treasures: Michelangelo's Pietà. It shows off his genius for capturing the human form - pay special attention to the incredibly lifelike folds of Mary's robes and her youthful features.

There was a massive queue of people patiently waiting to kiss the feet of the 13th-century bronze of St. Peter.

Under Michelangelo's famous dome, resting on top of the papal alter is the exquisite twisty-columned baldacchino(1524) by Bernini.

Highly recommended is the climb to Michelangelo's dome, about 113m (375 ft.) high. The view over the city of Rome and the Vatican City is breathtaking.

~Italy: Rome~

Our room at Hotel Waldorf was very small but very clean (it had the best bathroom out of all the hotels we stayed during our trip). Location – very convenient, about 10mins walk to metro and a short bus ride to the Vatican City.

Mum & I went to an evening tour of the Pantheon, Forum, Piazza Navona & Palazzo Venezia (ironically located in Rome). The tour guide Christine was lovely. Very multi-lingual and knowledgeable.


Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona is one of the main squares in Rome. It’s within walking distance from Castel Sant Angelo (Angel’s Castle – by Bernini) which is built on top of Hadrian’s tomb.

In addition to the twin-towered facade of 17th-century Santa Agnes, the piazza boasts several baroque masterpieces. The best known, in the center, is Bernini's Fountain of the Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi), whose four stone personifications symbolise the world's greatest rivers: the Ganges, Danube, della Plata, and Nile. I couldn’t tell which is which even though I read about it in the Da Vinci Code. At the south end is the Fountain of the Moor (Fontana del Moro), also by Bernini. The Fountain of Neptune (Fontana di Nettuno), which balances that of the Moor, is a 19th-century addition; it was restored after a 1997 attack by two men who broke the tail of one of its sea creatures.

The only downside was the fact that there was metal bar/fence with red stripes around all the fountains. The photos would have looked a lot better without them.

There are lots of restaurants and market stalls in the square if you get hungry or want to buy souvenirs.


Pantheon

The Pantheon is the oldest church in Rome. It was built in 27 BC by Marcus Agrippa and was reconstructed by Hadrian in the early 2nd century A.D. It is an easy 15min walk from Piazza Navona passing through a labyrinth of tiny streets and all of a sudden the Pantheon hits your eyes and it was just huge.

The tour guide told us that you could fit a perfect sphere in the Pantheon. The real story of the oculus (opening at the top of the dome) is that they didn’t have the skill or knowledge to close the dome at the time it was built. Every time they tried to close that part of the hemisphere, it fell straight down to the floor (that’s what Dan Brown said in the Da Vinci Code). Michelangelo came here to study the dome before designing the cupola of St. Peter's (whose dome is .6m/2 ft. smaller than the Pantheon's). So, it is fair to say that the Pantheon houses the mother of all domes.

About 125 years ago, Raphael's tomb was discovered here. Vittorio Emanuele II, king of Italy, and his successor, Umberto I, are interred here as well. If you have read the Da Vinci Code, you would know the reference there.


Palazzo Venezia

The Palazzo Venezia (ironic since it’s in Rome), in the heart of Rome near Piazza served as the seat of the Italian government during the fascist regime. The balcony from which Mussolini used to speak to the people and declared World War II was built in the 15th century.


Piazza Venezia

Piazza Venezia situated within the Palazzo Venezia is a magnificent piece of architecture. I was confronted by its sheer size and height even when I was viewing it in a distance. It is constructed out of white marble and was a wedding present (I think) to Vittorio Emanuele II, first king of Italy. It is an absolutely stunning structure. I couldn’t take my eyes off it.

Around the corner of Palazzo Venezia is Capitol Hill. The stairs leading up to the top were designed by Michangelo.

Roman Forum

Once you climb to the top of the stairs, you’re in the Senate Square. There’s a great big statute in the centre of it. As you walk through a little alley way on the right, you can overlook the Roman Forum. The ruins were amazing to observe. To think that there once existed a city of people who lived there is quite eerie.

Collosseum

Around the corner of Capitol Hill is the Collosseum which remains ancient Rome's greatest architectural legacy.

Long after the Colosseum ceased to be an arena to amuse sadistic Romans, it was struck by an earthquake, yet a large part of it remains standing today. I'm truly amazed that something built so long ago on such a grand scale back then has been so resilient and CityRail has to repair its 10 year-old rail-tracks weekly.

~Finland: Helsinki~

We stayed at the Hotel AVA.

Facilities: basic, 2 beds, a desk, a TV, a cupboard & a bathroom (no kettle, hairdryer or ironing facilities)
Cost: EUR60/night (by far the cheapest accommodation out of our trip)
Location: good - right next to a lovely park and 2 mins walk to bus stop. Around 10mins bus ride into city and 20min to airport.

Considering the standard for hotels in Europe is very different to the one in Australia, it wasn’t bad for the price we paid.

In my opinion, Finland is not as touristy as some of the other European countries. But it has an air of sophistication without the arrogance. We visited the usual sites like:

Market Square, the Presidential Palace, Uspenski Cathedral, Senate Square, Eliel Saarinen's Central Railway Station, Finlandia Hall, Sibelius Park, Suomenlinna Fortress etc ...